On the east side of the dry Owens Lake, southeast of Lone Pine on Hwy 136, is a town named Keeler. I think the best description of Keeler comes from the website Weird California:
“Keeler is practically a ghost town. Many of the buildings are falling apart, the lake it sits on is dry, the mines the town was built to support have been played out, yet still about fifty people live in the town, so a complete ghost town it is not.”
Owens Lake Silver-Lead Furnace State Registered Landmark
First things first. Thousands of years before Keeler existed there where humans living in the area. The proof is the petroglyphs in the area. The interpretation of these petroglyphs is a bit more interesting and controversial than most other petroglyph sites. Scholar Berry Fell has hypothesized that these petroglyphs were created by early European Celts thousands of years ago. That some of the markings were designed to mark the equinox(s). Many find that hard to believe. For an interesting read see the Equinox Project website.
Owens Petroglyphs
While it does not look like it now, the establishment of Hawley, Keeler’s original name, was based on capitalistic business competition. Mortimer Belshaw who was a miner and a smelter owner in Cerrro Gordo area wanted to bypass the Owens-Lake Silver-Lead Company which had a smelter and the only shipping dock in a town called Swansea. In 1873 Mortimer bought a shipping paddle wheel vessel named the Bessie Bradie. He built his own dock in Hawley (Keeler) just south of Swansea so he could bypass the the struggling Owens-Lake Silver-Lead Company. Things got even worse for the Owens-Lake Silver-Lead company when a flash flood in the summer of 1884 created a mudslide that inundated the town of Swansea.
Swansea - This was taken a few years ago today the roof is now gone. One heck a view they had though!
Hawley really wasn’t a town just a transit hub. That was until Julius Keeler showed up in 1879. In 1880 the Cerro Gordo mine was having a revival and Julius wanted to take advantage of it. He started dreaming up plans for a new ore mill and town to surround it. He made his dreams a reality and the mill opened in 1881 and the town was formed.
Good fortune seldom lasts and Julius had some bad luck in 1882. He spent a ton of money to refurbish the Bessie Bradie only to see it catch fire and burn just after the project was completed. The loss of the Bessie Bradie ended shipping ore over the Owens Lake for good.
In 1883, with the arrival of the Carson and Colorado Railroad Keeler again became a freight hub. As with almost all mines the Cerro Gordo began to peak in the late 1880 and 90’s.
No 18 Slim Princess of the Carson and Colorado Railroad
Keeler was resilient however, and was saved in the early 1900’s by renewed mining activity. In 1906 a smelter was built at Keeler to process silver ores. In 1907, zinc mining became king and created another Keeler revival. Mining operating would increase and decrease in spits and spats until the Cerro Gordo mines closed permanently in 1933.
1913 marked another important turning point for Keeler. It was the first year water was diverted from The Owens Lake to Los Angeles. Initially the shrinking lake provided an economic opportunity for Keeler. Soda processing from the dry lake helped Keeler survive after the Cerro Gordo mines closed.
Time was not on Keeler’s side however. In 1960, economic activity had slowed enough that the railroad terminal closed and the tracks were removed. Since then Keeler has slowly deconstructed into what it is today.
Keeler Beach
Currently around 50-60 folks live in the town. Keeler is now part ghost town, part desert outpost, and part eclectic entity. Call Keeler what you want, I call it a cool place to visit.
Eclectic Residence
Old Gas Pump
I have yet found the land marker that has the quote below but somewhere in Keeler there is this historical marker that says”
”Keeler End of the Line
From Mount House, Nevada, narrow gauge rails of the Carson & Colorado reached this site in 1883. As Cerro Gordo and other mines faltered, the rail line fell on hard times, so plans to extend the line to Mojave were abandoned, leaving Keeler as "End of the Line".
Dedicated May 12, 1973 Slim Princess Chapter E Clampus Vitus Inyo County Board of Supervisors”
Keeler Swimming Pool looking out towards the Sierra and Horseshoe Meadow Road
Keeler may be the end of the line but is worth a visit!
For some great old pictures of Keeler check out Owens Valley History - Keeler page.
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